To make a complete garments, cutting is necessary, cutting means to cut the garments piece from lays of fabric with help of cutting equipment and template. During cutting the marker is applied to top ply of lay.
Factors of quality cutting:
The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as reline of pattern pieces in the marker plan .in achieving this object accurately there have some certain requirement.
- Precision of cut: Garment cannot be assembled satisfactorily and may not fit the body correctly not been cut accurately to the pattern shape and size must be as per original sketch.
- Clean edge: The edge of the fabric should not show fraying .such defects on imperfectly knife.
- Unfused edge: The build up of heat in the knife blade comes form the friction on between the blade and fabric lay specially for man –made fiber may resulting.
- Support of lay: The cutting system must provide the means not only to support the fabric but also allow the blade to penetrate the lowest ply of a spread lay and save all the fabrics.
- Consistent cutting: To get consistency of cutting marker are placed on lay and see plies are clamped tightly with table so that all plies are cut at same time and same pressure.
Importance of cutting: The importance of cutting is given below,
- The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts and replicas of pattern pieces in the marker plan.
- By accurate cutting we can minimize the fabric wastage.
- Without fabric cutting it is impossible to get uniform finished fabric.
- To prepare the pattern pieces for proper sewing.
Method of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting method is mainly classified into two types. These are,
1) Manual method.
- a) Straight knife
- b) Round knife
- c) Band knife
2) Computerized method.
- a) Water jet cutting
- b) Laser cutting
- c) Plasma torch cutting
- a)Straight knife: A straight knife is a knife with a blade that cannot fold into its handle is called straight knife method.
- High production cutting machine
- possible to cut fabric directly
- Round method: The round knife is one of the most versatile tools in a fabric workers tools.
- b)Round knife: The round knife is one of the most versatile tools in a fabric workers tools.
- a base plate
- an electric motor
- blade diameter very from 6-20 cm
- c)Band knife: A band knife is a power tool used for cutting cloth. very similar in operation to a band saw it has an endless loop blade and the material to be cut is supported by a flat table.
Two types of band knife-
- Vertical band knife
- Horizontal band knife
Water jet method: A water jet cutter, also known as a water jet, is a tool capable of slicing into metal or other materials using a jet of water at high velocity and pressure, or a mixture of water and an abrasivesubstance
Laser cutting: Laser cutting is a technology that uses a laser to cut materials, and is typically used for industrial manufacturing application.
Plasma torch cutting: Plasma cutting is a process that is used to cut steel and other metals of different thicknesses using a plasma torch.